Beyond the vineyards, but still within easy striking distance of the capital, it’s worth targeting this Pacific coast city, also a a historic and busy port. Valparaiso has shoals of crammed painted houses careering down vertiginous hillsides, accessed by wooden lifts and staircases. These hilltop quarters now offer boutique hotels and chic and interesting restaurants – neighbourhoods renowned for its bohemian atmosphere. Down below the port area’s heavy Victorian-style architecture recalls an era when British influence was strong.
Several miles north is the resort of Viña del Mar, historically chic but now a popular seaside spot and commercial town. It may be too cold for sunbathing (likely 15°C), but from here charming fishing villages and beaches line the length of the coast making it well worth the trip.